Academy M4A2 US Marines Sherman

Hey Dog-F this should be an interesting build and when you done with this and gotz it sitting in the LCM post a few pixs of that, it sould be kool.

As for the which drives to use check this link, it should/might help but if not let me or the other SHOP rats know.  VVSS Suspension

That's a very useful link Eric!  Thanks!




Jeff

Dogfish,

Per Eric's link, my references show a pretty late M4A2 which would have the plated drive socket(picture 5) but without the locking tabs. You probably have this one in the kit? For the bogies these would be the ones with the upswept return rollers which is picture 3 in the group of bogie pictures in the link. Also, you didn't ask but they would also have the solid type idler which is picture 2 in the picture section under idlers. These features seem to be typcial for such a tank, certainly those that served on Iwo Jima.

Here is a picture of I believe the same tank that is on the box art of your model. As you can see it has all the same features I mentioned above.

Hope this helps.
Dave





.

Hey Bruce,

The numbers are a combination oh Drawing number, serial Number, and heat lot numbers. It can get confusing at times.

Here it is with a little primer.


This will be the pattern for the Olive Drab and Desert Yellow.

Here are shots of the 2 M4A2's in question.

Caesar:



Goldbrick Jr.

Hey Bruce,

The turret hatch ring rotates, so your good there.

Now, the question I have, are you building it with the wadding stacks? The stacks might cover up the differences between the M4A3 and M4A2???

What do you think Dave? I'm not that familiar with how much area the stacks covered up.

Big John,

Like Bruce says the wading stacks will not cover up the rear engine deck that has the diesel fuel filler, water and engine oil gauge caps in place. Also, this kit looks like it has the grouser plates on the rear deck which you also don't have on an M4A3 rear deck. While you could chisel them off and sand the area down you still need a new M4A3 engine deck. Finally, the large Hatch M4A2's had the 6 retaining bolts on the rear plate. These (if they are on the kit) would have to be shaved off. So, at this point based on what I see I would not go this route since it means added cost and work. Might be best to try and make her look as close as possible to Goldbrick or Caesar.

Hey Bruce,

It's not a requirement here that it has to be 100% accurate. Build how like.