Sherman bogies.

Looks like your missing the foam spacers that get trapped inside the bogie housing. I'm not sure about the "early" bogies. But the Mid bogies get foam spacers that need to be cut and stacked inside the housing. They act like the spring suspention making them workable.

Hey  Zod,

An alternative to the foam would be to make the spacers out sheet plastic, if your bogies are going to sit flat on the ground.  If you look at Luigis awesome Sherman you'll notice how the first bogey kind of raises up to the tension of the track, same for the last.  I myself glue my bogies into position to avoid this problem. 

I'm not bagging on Luigis Sherman it looks sweet and will be awesome when finished. The above are only suggestions and observations.  

Keep up the great work...both of you!!!  

John, that's a great trick.

Eric, thanks for the suggestion, I hadn't noticed that unpleasant position of those two bogeys. I'll see if I can get rid of that stance.

If I remember correctly, the shims are two .020 disk cut from sheet and stacked on the springs. There is a little more room to add some more. I miced a set of ride hight spaceres from formations. I'd have to dig that info up as I don't have it in front of me.

You could take the easy way out and buy the ride hight spacers from Formations.

I've used rectangles of .030" or .040" strip on mine.  I like the looks of the discs, though; another use for my punch set!  When deciding on ride height, you first need to figure out just what you are modeling.  A dozer will probably sag a bit more up front; a Jumbo definitely will.  Same goes for an M32 ARV if you are ambitious enough to show it at work and lifting something heavy, and I would also sag the front bogies on any M4A1 or A3 that has had late-war additional armor plate added to make an expedient Jumbo.  My Madill 071 will have to have the fronts completely flat, as those rigs grossly overloaded the old VVSS.  And I also like to secure my final set by gluing everything in place, which also makes it much easier to get the track tension right when using Pandas (my preferred tracks).

Zod, assuming that you haven't glued the arms in their current position, put something under the main hull while on a flat surface to get the correct ride height. Then apply some cement to the arms and let them cure. You'll have thenm gained the correct height without having to puy more units.

Gary